The Gralley Blog

#11. The Yellow Sea Snake....

2007-03-07T19:05:00.000-08:00

looked like this.

http://www.survivaliq.com/survival/poisonous-snakes-and-lizards-yellow-bellied-sea-snake.htm

#10. Playa Azucar

2007-02-27T20:00:00.000-08:00

We traded the rugged interior with its dry grass-lands and hot springs for the cool breezes of Costa Rica's southern coast. Playa Azucar--"Sugar Beach"--offered the opportunity to kick-back, read a good book, and watch the long-tailed Iguanas laze around the pavilion. A little later in the day, we took a swim and encountered what locals said was a poisonous sea snake --identified by a long yellow stripe down the length of its body--that had washed up on the shore.

#9. Hot and Cold Running Rivers

2007-02-22T18:50:00.000-08:00

The next stop on our three-week odessy was Rincon de la Vieja--a stone's throw from the Nicaraguan border. The grasslands were gently sloping; we rode horses back into the highlands and down the steep bank of a river--at the confluence of hot (geothermal) and cold branches, a great combination, just perfect for a relaxing afternoon swim. Around us was an abundance of wildlife--blue morpho butterflies and the agouti, a large tropical tree-climbing rodent were most evident.

#8. Zipping Through the Jungle

2007-02-19T07:48:00.000-08:00

We eventually made it to the zip line--which stretched 1000 feet over the floor of the jungle 400 feet below. The line is the longest and highest in Costa Rica.

#7. Stuck in the Clouds

2007-02-19T06:15:00.000-08:00

We heard that the Monteverde Cloud Forest had an amazing and diverse array of rare butterflies and wildlife so we headed for higher elevation--and found lodging at El Sapo Dorado deep in the jungle highlands. After a series of hikes through the damp and earthy primeval woodland we relented to our son's request, and packed ourselves into the jeep for a zip-line adventure. We soon found that the rutted road leading from our lodge was blocked by a school bus, stuck perpendicular in the road, so we took what appeared to be an alternate, albeit rough and sharp down hill stretch of road around the bus. Within a matter of seconds, we realized--too late--that the road was in fact a gully through dense brush and truck sized boulders. Unable to back-up because of the steep grade, we had no alternative but to go forward, where we proceeded get wedged between two huge rocks. After a half hour of sizing up the situation and pushing the jeep, I walked back to town and through a series of hand gestures, butchered (and anglicized) Spanish phrases, I communicated my predicament to several construction workers--who, with the assistance of ropes and chains, pulled us through the gully to a smoother, but still unpaved road.

http://www.cool.co.cr/usr/sapodorado/

#6. A Room With a View

2007-02-17T21:17:00.000-08:00

We reached our destination--the Smithsonian Observatory Lodge--located just below the Arenal volcano fairly late in the day. Several months a year, the lodge is closed to the public so the Smithsonian can take seismic and other measurements of the volcano--which is one of the most active in the world. We heard rumblings and booming sounds throughout our stay, and when the sun disappeared, we could see rivulets of lava flowing down its sides. The next day we woke to the stark cry of Howler Monkys in the jungle that surrounded the lodge. Two weeks after we departed, the Volcano erupted, killing two hikers.
http://www.arenal.net/volcano-eruption/eruption-23-august-2000.htm

#5. All Roads Lead to Heredia....

2007-02-14T19:14:00.000-08:00

We hadn't had our fill of volcanoes, so we headed for Arenal, which as the crow flies isn't far from Selva Verde. We happened to run into a massive public strike (a common occurrence we're told) that purposely created a huge traffic jam for miles so we had to take the long way to reach our destination. Along the way we got lost in Heredia--and thought I'd use my rusty Spanish (Hola! Hables englaise?) to pull our chestnuts out of the fire. All I received were quisical looks. Seems that no one spoke english in the countryside. Plan B--I thrust the map into their hands and..... more blank stares. Left to my own devices, I pulled out a compass and gave it to my son--who shouted out compass readings as we drove off, heading for the Northwest quadrant of the city.

#4. The Boa Below

2007-02-13T19:42:00.000-08:00

#3. Blue Morphos, Big Snakes, and Poison Frogs

2007-02-13T18:57:00.000-08:00

The magnificent lights of San Jose as seen from atop the Poas Volcano couldn't hold us for more than one night. The next day we pushed on to the tropical lowlands--to Selva Verde Lodge on the shore of the Sarapiqui river. We arrived late in the day. As White Face Monkys and sloths hung from the trees overhead, iguanas and crocodiles sunned themselves on the banks of the river not far from where we took a late afternoon dip. The next morning we awoke to a commotion. Just below our room, which was raised on stilts, a Boa had captured an Iguana--and a crowd, mostly of locals, had gathered to watch the show.

#2.The Simple Shack on Poas Vocano

2007-02-09T17:55:00.000-08:00

The one image that stuck in my mind flying into San Jose was how dense and lush the tropical canopy was that blanketed the region--a vision immediately accompanied by the disturbing thought that someone could really get lost down there. Both paralyzed and excited by the prospect, we made our way to the jeep rental company and set off for La Providencia Lodge--a rustic guest cabin on the windward side of the Poas volcano.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by the proprietors in their simple, earthen floor home, and offered dinner directly from an old, food spattered and encrusted crock-pot. We knew that our accommodations didn't offer any amenities--like water, heat, or electricity--but what we did have was a spectacular vista overlooking San Jose. As soon as the sun went down we walked a bit along the windswept crater to view the city lights far below--but were quickly forced to retreat to our bare-bones cabin because of the penetrating frigid wind. It was so cold that we slept with our clothes on. The proprietors were thoughtful enough to provide plenty of blankets--and insect repellent to dispatch the bedbugs.

#1. Three Weeks (Not) Coasting in Costa Rica

2007-02-09T17:12:00.000-08:00

A four-wheel drive jeep, a map, two-lame years of high school Spanish, and a few thousand Colones--that's all we had, and ever needed for a dramatic adventure in a tropical Eden. No private tour packages--the few prearranged bed and breakfast accommodations were made online and typically, not found in travel books like Fodors. We traveled where and when we wanted, explored the country freely with only a vague notion of a destination. We travelled some of the worst rutted, unpaved roads imaginable, forded rivers, had our jeep wedged between boulders on a down-hill slope, slept in a shack on the side of a volcano, and saw some of the most unique plant and animal life imaginable. Let's get started....